On the Monday and Tuesday I paid my usual visits to the fountain,and likewise rode about the neighbourhood for the purpose of circulating tracts.I dropped a great many in the favourite walks of the people of Evora,as I felt rather dubious of their accepting them had I proffered them with my own hands;whereas if they found them on the ground,I thought that curiosity might induce them to pick them up and examine them.I likewise on the Tuesday evening paid a farewell visit to my friend Don Azveto,as it was my intention to leave Evora on the Thursday following;in which view Ihad engaged a cabriolet of a man who informed me that he had served as a soldier in the GRANDE ARMEE of Napoleon,and had been present throughout the Russian campaign.He looked the image of a drunkard;his face was covered with carbuncles,and his breath impregnated with the fumes of strong waters.He wished much to converse with me in French,in the speaking of which language,it seems,he prided himself much;but I refused,and told him to speak the language of the country,or I would hold no discourse with him.
Wednesday was stormy,with occasional rain.On coming down I found that my friend from Palmella had departed,but several CONTRABANDISTAS had arrived from Spain.They were mostly fine fellows,and,unlike the two I had seen the previous week,who were of much lower degree,were chatty and communicative;they spoke their native language and no other,and seemed to hold Portuguese in great contempt;their magnificent Spanish tones were heard to great advantage amidst the shrill chirping dialect of Portugal.Iwas soon in deep conversation with them,and was much pleased to find that all of them could read.I presented the eldest of them,a man of about fifty years of age,with a tract in Spanish.He examined it for some time with great attention;he then rose from his seat,and going into the middle of the apartment,began reading it aloud,slowly and emphatically;his companions gathered round him,and every now and then expressed their satisfaction at what they heard.The reader occasionally called upon me to explain particular passages which,as they referred to Scripture,he did not exactly understand,for not one of the party had ever seen either the Old or New Testament.He continued reading for nearly an hour until he had finished the tract,and at its conclusion the whole party were clamorous for similar ones,with which I was happy to be able to supply them.Most of them spoke of priestcraft and the monks with the utmost abhorrence,and said that they should prefer death to again submitting to the yoke which had formerly galled their necks.I questioned them very particularly respecting the opinion of their neighbours and acquaintances on this point,and they assured me that in their part of the Spanish frontier all were of the same mind,and that they cared as little for the Pope and his monks as they did for Don Carlos,for the latter was a dwarf (CHICOTITO)and a tyrant,and the others were plunderers and robbers.I told them that they must beware of confounding religion with priestcraft,and that in their abhorrence of the latter they must not forget that there is a God and a Christ,to whom they must look for salvation,and whose word it was incumbent upon them to study on every occasion;whereupon they all expressed a devout belief in Christ and the Virgin.
These men,though in many respects far more enlightened than the surrounding peasantry,were in others quite as much in the dark;they believed in witchcraft and in the efficacy of particular charms.The night was very stormy,and about nine we heard a galloping towards the door,and then a loud knocking;it was opened,and in rushed a wild-looking man mounted upon a donkey.He wore a jerkin of sheepskin,called in Spanish ZAMARRAS,with breeches of the same as far down as his knee;his legs were bare.
Around his SOMBRERO,or shadowy hat,was tied a large quantity of the herb called in English rosemary,in Spanish ROMERO,and in the rustic language of Portugal ELLECRIN,which last is a word of Scandinavian origin,and properly signifies the elfin plant.[It was probably]carried into the south by the Vandals or the Alani.
The [man seemed]frantic with terror,and said that the witches had been pursuing him,and hovering over his head,for the last two leagues.He came from the Spanish frontier with meal and other articles;he informed us that his wife was following him and would soon arrive,and within a quarter of an hour she made her appearance,dripping with rain,and also mounted upon a donkey.Iasked my friends the CONTRABANDISTAS why he wore the rosemary in his hat,and they told me that it was good against witches and the mischances of the road.I had no time to argue against this superstition,for as the chaise was to be ready at five o'clock next morning I wished to make the most of the few hours which Icould devote to rest.